Jordanian traditional costume paint a picture of the lives of the women who produced these costumes and the social context within which they were produced, mainly during wedding preparations.

A great deal of social life in Jordan revolved around the wedding, which included a fair amount of preparations and festivities. An example of these preparations was the bride's Kisweh or trousseau. For this occasion families of the bride and the bridegroom paid a visit to the main market (souq) of the nearest city to buy materials for the bride's trousseau and gifts for the elders in both families. This was an event that few women forgot.

Jamileh Hassan's Kisweh, 1945

Jamileh, aged 17, left at 5 o'clock one summer morning in 1945 with her immediate family and her fiancé's family in Umm Qais for the town of Irbid. Among the numerous textile shops in Irbid they chose Abu Ahmad's shop.

After hours of picking and bargaining they bought the following textiles: black cotton dubeit fabric, enough for two costumes; blue cotton fabric called sini for the wedding-dress; black silk malas fabric for another ceremonial dress; one black cotton velvet fabric for another dress; black silk crepe fabric for the headdress; a red brocaded silk scarf ('asbeh) for on top of the headdress; and a number of colored silk and cotton threads for embroidery.

Woven fringed rug used as a saddle cover specially made for
a bride on her trip to the bridegroom's house

Besides these items, which were expected to be part of any bride's clothing, other fabrics were purchased as family gifts. Abu Ahmad, the owner of the shop they chose, insisted on ordering their lunch and fed them in the courtyard of his shop by the fountain and the lemon tree.

Afterwards, they thanked him and due to his fervent inquiries about the wedding, which was a few months ahead, they had to invite him to it. Abu Ahmad accepted happily. Eighteen years later Jamileh found herself in Abu Ahmad's courtyard having lunch by the fountain and lemon tree after buying her daughter's trousseau. Again he was invited to the wedding.

After leaving Abu Ahmad's shop young Jamileh went with her own family and her future in-laws to the jeweler Salim - who was the most famous in Irbid at the time.

A beautiful camel bridle decorated with cowrie shells, Aqaba - Jordan

There they bought the following bridal items: a silver headband ('irjeh); two pairs of Sharkas bracelets; two amulets; two silver rings; a long chain (jnad) that is worn sideways; and a number of colorful beads. Afterwards both families headed back to Umm Qais where everyone was anxious to see the bride's new possessions.

Starting the following day, all the females of her family - her Mother, sisters and aunts - started embroidering and tailoring Jamileh's trousseau. This also included preparing household items like cushions, quilts and rugs. As soon as all this work was finished the wedding date was announced.